Our first morning in Bequia (pronounced beck-way) we’d hoped to sleep in, but the locals had other plans for us. A friendly knock on the hull sent us scrambling for clothes, pretending that we’d been awake all along. One after another, vendors came knocking – first the bread guy with baguettes, then the photo guy with photo proofs of our boat coming into the harbor (he’d shot them from his dinghy the day before), and a lady to pick up the laundry. Nobody was pushy, and we got bread and crossed laundry off the to-do list, all without leaving our boat. Based on these services, the waterfront walkway, and the awesome restaurants, it is evident that Bequia understands hospitality.
At anchor in Port Elizabeth, we’re surrounded by tons of other boats, flying flags from around the globe. Finally, we’ve caught up with a big pocket of cruisers here in Bequia, one of 32 islands that make up the country known as St. Vincent and The Grenadines.
Port Elizabeth in Bequia is adorable and fun. The local government has invested heavily in the construction of a narrow, cement boardwalk that follows the waterfront, giving pedestrians easy access to restaurants, cafes, and beaches, and a picturesque place to stroll. On our first day, we walked this path from end to end. There are lots of appealing places to enjoy the views and socialize with a cold drink or a meal, and we smiled that we were finally in a fun place filled with other sailors. We thought that, come sunset, these joints would be hopping, but for some reason, the cruisers mostly stayed on their boats.
We were disappointed that people were not out and about like we’d hoped, but it turned out not to matter, because the very next day my nose mysteriously swelled up like a balloon. It came with all of the symptoms of a bad sinus infection (unfortunately, I get those often), so I assumed that was the problem. Brian amused himself with a couple days of sewing projects, while I confined myself to the aft berth to convalesce and sweat.
We’re just 75 nautical miles from Grenada, our final destination for the season. As we enjoy one of the last milestone stops on our way, I’m struggling to wrap my head around the idea of staying put for the next three months, after being on the move for so long.
Photo proof by Kenmore, the man who takes photos of the boats as they arrive in the harbor. We would have bought this print if we’d had all our sails fully unfurled instead of just our mizzen and a reefed headsail. (There was a ton of wind, so we didn’t need a lot of sail area that day).
No. #1 Bread Man in his dinghy
The walking path in Bequia. This part goes by all the waterfront restaurants, boutique hotels, and bars.
Many of the restaurants also had nice dinghy docks for those who preferred to arrive by water.
Brian, in front of the popular and unfortunately named Whaleboner restaurant and bar.
The path was immaculately clean, and there were a lot of signs reminding people not to throw their trash along the path.
Some parts of the path take you alongside boulders, suspended 20 feet in the air
Gingerbread cafe makes their own ice cream
We had a really lovely lunch on the porch at Mac’s
Children playing on one of the beaches
A little girl was holding this starfish, but she was shy and didn’t want to be in the photo. She placed it on the boardwalk for me to photograph.
The brick fired pizza bar at Plantation Guest Cottages
Breakfast at Plantation
Port Elizabeth town center.
There are lots of local dogs out and about in Bequia. It’s a rabies-free country and they have very strict rules for cruisers brining in pets – the sign in the Custom’s office warns that undocumented dogs (those who have not undergone veterinary testing and permitting) may be shot on sight.
We’ve seen a lot of unusual combo businesses in our travels, but this one was especially strange – a shop where you can buy some CDs while refilling your propane tank.
Mind the road at Mom’s – the food pickup window is just inches from the street.
boys bathing a dog in the ocean
We took our tattered main sail in to the loft at Grenadine Sails for an evaluation. The good news is that the canvas is in decent shape. The bad news is that all of the stitching has come undone from UV exposure and the edges are tattered. We hired them give it a good once over restoration and hope that we won’t have any more issues for a while.
Jerry cans before Brian’s sewing project
Jerry cans with Sunbrella covers. We love how they protect the cans from UV exposure and make the boat look less cluttered.
s/v Friendship Rose in the harbor
Brian eating soursop, a new favorite fruit that tastes something like a pineapple crossed with a pear. The seeds are poisonous, and it sure lives up to its name for being messy to eat!