Month: June 2016

36 hours in Terre-de-Haut, Iles des Saintes

You’ve likely noticed my penchant for nautical whimsey. Here in Terre-de-Haut, one of a group of islands known as Iles des Saintes, I was on nautical/whimsical overload. Unlike many of the places we’ve visited in the sleepy off-season, Terre-de- Haut was hopping with activity.  Saturday morning, the ferries pulled up from nearby Guadeloupe, delivering day trippers – a mix of nearby locals and French tourists. The streets were filled with people – buzzing around on teetering rental scooters, eating ice cream and street snacks, cheering for their teams in the 2016 Euro football match, and piling into beach-bound vehicles with large umbrellas. We...

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Shoop, Shoop, Guadeloupe

It’s been a while since we’ve had to strategically plan our itinerary based on weather, but this was one of those weeks. A cluster of nasty squalls appeared in the forecast, forcing us to seek shelter in a protected harbor. We decided to bypass the insufficiently protected harbors of Monserrat (the next island down the chain) and push on to Guadeloupe instead. We left Nevis at 3AM and thirteen hours later, arrived in Deshaies, wrung out from dealing with gnarly, confused waves and squalls. I spent my last ounce of patience negotiating the packed harbor to find a suitable...

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36 Hours in Lovely Nevis

Nevis is the kind of place we always dreamed cruising would take us. It’s a humble, quirky, charismatic little island with a genuine personality and culture all its own. As we wandered around the village of Charleston, we immediately sensed a collective feeling of pride in the community. Immaculately groomed men, women, and children going about their days, running errands and playing in the cleanest streets and landscaped squares we’ve seen (not so much as a bottle cap in sight). Smiling locals kept stopping us – at the dinghy dock, in the garden, on the street, and outside the bank...

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Finding Our Happy Place in St. Barts

Schleppy is the word I use to describe how we felt upon arrival in Gustavia, the epicenter of St. Barts*. From the moment we tied up to the pristine, mega yacht adjacent dinghy dock, we realized that the Bahamas, this was not. Wandering around the cute, chic town in our best sea-worn threads, we were conspicuous, salty fashion victims, lost in a sea of couture caftans and seersucker. Even the customs officer stationed behind a counter of polished marble had a certain je ne sais quoi unmatched by other civil servants we’ve met in our travels. Underdressed as we...

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The Glamorous Yacht Life: Every Sailor in St. Martin Has a Solution to My Cockroach Problem

The other day, as we made ready to leave St. Martin for St. Barts, I stuck my face down in the bilge (compartments under the floorboards, below the waterline) to inspect our water tank and noticed something moving just inches from my face. Two Cockroaches. EWWWWWWWW. And, fuuuuuuck. Two roaches on a boat is two too many. As I calmly pondered next steps (read: hysterically googled “kill roach on boat”) I remembered that a trusted friend of ours once suffered this issue (in spite of having the cleanest boat I’ve ever seen, see: When Cockroaches Happen to Clean People) and waged a...

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