The same weather window that gave us a drama-free passage miraculously stretches on, providing comfortable seas for exploring Puerto Rico’s west coast. We’re making the most of this gift, hopping over to a new place each morning until the east winds and big waves return.
Leaving Boqueron, we traveled twenty miles east to La Parguera. Much-hyped for having mangrove canals lined with cottages on stilts, it’s known as “the Venice of the Caribbean”. It’s also home to one of the World’s seven bioluminescent bays, and is rumored to have great snorkeling reefs. We were obviously stoked to get there and explore.
Anchored out among islands of mangroves, we saw skiffs (small motorboats) filled with vacationing families go by and people floating lazily on rafts under mangrove canopies, six packs in tow. The atmosphere was chill and family-friendly that Wednesday. Like so many other spots on the South coast, things pick up by the weekend.
After a failed attempt to find snorkel spots, we decided to go into town and check out the canals. It wasn’t quite Venice, but the kitchy, mismatched cottages that lined the waterway were quite charming nonetheless. After securing our dinghies in the mangroves, we walked into town and found tasty, cheap mojitos, empanadillas, and octopus salad to fill our bellies. At the dive shop we were told that the good snorkeling spots were actually located further off shore (in a place where we could not safely anchor) but would we like to charter a skiff? We politely declined.
We ran into Rosie and Sim (s/v Wandering Star) and their friends Terry and Jan, former cruisers who have settled in town, who invited us for drinks. After some antics with that boisterous lot, we were ready to call it a day.
Back on the boat Allison called us on the radio and said it was time to go check out the bioluminescent bay. We waffled a bit, (we were in our pajamas, after all) but Allison threw the YOLO card (you only live once) which is basically all you have to say to get a cruiser to do something they’re otherwise feeling too lazy to do. Hanging out in the stillness of a moonlit bay, watching the glowing light trail in the dinghy’s wake, we were handsomely rewarded for our troubles. A perfect end to another great day in Puerto Rico.