Town directory in Black Point Settlement

Due to circumstances both natural and self-imposed, we’ve been hanging around the Staniel Cay area far longer than expected. Yet another cold front rolled through late last week, leaving us with no choice but to seek quick protection from the west and holding us hostage on the boat for four days of rolling. We would have been more bummed, if I hadn’t found and purchased an appropriately sized, used Lewmar 50 winch on eBay. As luck would have it, we discovered that the only reasonably-priced and hassle free courier in the Exhumas happens to make daily deliveries from Fort Lauderdale to Staniel Cay. The prospect of finally having a new winch is so worth the wait.

Between cold fronts bringing strong winds and sometimes rain, we’ve been making the most of the precious calm days here. We’re in the water whenever possible, snorkeling and swimming around the rocky terrain, and have been making short hops to reanchor in new spots, so there is always something new to look at. There are two tiny towns, with the first non-cruisers we’ve encountered since Nassau, and we’ve enjoyed the opportunity to finally experience a little island culture and stretch our legs a bit.


Precarious ladder at the government dock in Black Point Settlement


Sign two lefts and one hill away from the Pink Pearl Super Market in Staniel Cay. The Mail Boat had missed its weekly visit, which meant the shelves were bare and the store was closed.


Downtown Black Point Settlement


Black Point Settlement hosts a popular regatta each summer. They’ve built special viewing porches overlooking the harbor which they use for the occasion.


Bahamian spirit


Overlook to the harbor at Staniel Cay. I’d forgotten my flip flops back on the boat (rookie cruiser move) so Brian insisted on lending me his. It was the first time I’d worn shoes of any kind in over three weeks.


We enjoyed the scavenger hunt of trying to locate the businesses of Staniel Cay. Directional signs to this laundromat/liquor store were prominently displayed on the main road, but with a construction site smack in the middle of the path, we nearly missed it. We never managed to find the unmarked yellow house where the baker lives to get some Bahamian coconut bread.


A sign on the door of the Black Point Settlement clinic tells you which day you can expect the doctor to be in that month.


We finally tracked down our very own loaf of Bahamian coconut bread in Blackpoint Settlement, where two women bake it once a week and sell it through the convenience stores and cafes. Cruisers go crazy for this sweet, yeasted bread with fresh ground coconut inside.


Snugging together during a cold front we weathered, tucked in above The Majors behind Gaulin Cay. Temperatures dipped down into the 60’s!


I’ve been making our bread from scratch. During the last cold front, I made naan to go with a big batch of chana masala (Indian chickpea curry).


We’re sick of creepy barracudas lurking and leering at us while we snorkel. We read that they are attracted to shiny metals, so we’ve given up wearing jewelry for now, including our wedding bands and the necklace that I (used to) never take off.


There was lots of interesting terrain surrounding the spot where we tucked in to wait out the weather new Staniel Cay. We couldn’t wait to go exploring when it finally calmed down!




We crashed this private beach to do some calisthenics and made-up relay races.


Sunset, alone at anchor in Sampson Cay

We’ve especially enjoyed our time in Black Point, where the locals are friendly and the beer is rumored to be cheap. In addition to exploring the town, we’ve been happy to part with the eight bags of trash we’ve accumulated in the past month, fill up a few jerry cans with some RO water, and give the linens and towels a spin in the nicest washing machines I’ve seen since Florida. Our next moves will be determined by the weather and the winch. Which will arrive first? Nobody can say for sure.